Broome is a well known tourist hot spot on the far north coast of WA and we totally visited the area in the peak of the dry season. The only real options for camping are the caravan parks and the ones in town or by the beach were either fully booked or just never bothered answering the phones (clearly because they are fully booked this time of year!). After a bit of a call around, we found a park about 5km out of town which had space for four nights for us. The pool at the caravan park was like something from a holiday resort, clearly a winner with the kids and a nice option to cool off in the constant 32 degree days Broome seems to enjoy this time of year (hence the crowds as it’s winter everywhere else in Australia!).

Our second day in Broome was Fin’s 10th birthday – what an occasion! Double digits for the (not so) little man. Despite not having many places in a van to hide things, we did pretty well at keeping his pressies a surprise and the best surprise of all was saved for last as we had hired a small boat for the day.

Despite not catching any fish, we had a fun day exploring the mangroves and creeks around Broome (with eyes constantly searching for crocs just incase!).

For three nights each month, a few places on the far north west coast are host to a natural phenomenon known as the staircase to the moon. It’s caused by the light from the moon reflecting on the mudflats as it rises over the ocean on an extremely low tide. It just so happens that the second night of the staircase to the moon for June happened to be Finlay’s birthday so we finished the day off at the night markets on Town Beach. It’s probably the largest gathering of people we have seen in our entire trip as every tourist in town gathered to watch the moon rise. I still think I prefer sunsets, and I am not entirely convinced there was a staircase to anywhere, but the vibe was nice and it was a fun way to end a fabulous day.

With a few logistical things to organise in Broome (car rego etc), this stay was really all about Finlay’s birthday and then some time to just stay still in one place for four nights and re-set. We didn’t really have any plans past Broome so also time to start looking at the map for the next leg of the journey.

After our four nights in Broome it felt time to leave. There are some places where I feel we never have enough time and I could stay for longer. Others I feel we have seen what we wanted to see and it’s time to keep exploring. Perhaps it was the busyness of the town, or the fact that most attractions seem to be organised tours, but I felt ready to keep exploring and see the area for ourselves.

200km north of Broome, we set up our 69th camp at Gumbanan Bush Camp. Owned by the Davey Family, a small area of land has been cleared on the cliff top to create an area for camping. Noting how close we still are to Broome and the peak season we are travelling this area, the camp was busy when we arrived and really filled up as the afternoon progressed. Even with a camp full of other travellers, we felt a million miles away from the crowds on the caravan parks in town. It’s the kind of place where you drive in and find somewhere to camp. On our first morning, we noticed a couple packing up their van at one of the best spots on the site so I quickly sprung into action to assemble the family to be ready to move! Clearly the practice of packing up our van over the last six months is now second nature to everyone and within 10 minutes we were ready to move as soon as they left.

Having re-established our camp in our new spot with water views, we set off to visit Cygnet Bay and the operational pearl farm. Realising their was a pool at the facility, the kids enjoyed a swim and I managed a quick look around the ‘gift shop’ which displayed so many pearls set in different ways. Clearly I had no idea you could spend so much money on pearls!

Only ten minutes drive from camp, we visited the community of One Arm Point. There are several indigenous communities on the peninsula, most of which are closed to visitors. The town of One Arm Point felt like a world apart from the tourist resort and infinity pool at Cygnet Bay, only 10km up the road, and offers a small window into a different culture. Paying our entry fee at the Centrelink Office, the man inside explained that the community has just re-opened to visitors after being closed for almost two years as a result of COVID. They are now madly scrambling to get staff back on the books. There are rules on where you can and can’t drive through the town, and we are given directions to the hatchery where we joined a tour of the small aquaculture facility.

I admit, I saw the word hatchery and assumed turtles. I was wrong. The hatchery is a working aquaculture centre where fish, Trochus (marine molluscs) and other marine life are bred and released. We were told of the history of the Trochus shell industry, and how the shells were polished and sold overseas to make buttons. The creatures we saw were familiar to us and we have all heard their habitats and behaviour described many times. What made this tour different however, was the additional information provided on the traditional fishing methods and the importance some of these creatures have in the local culture. Finlay, always a lover of facts and new information, was captivated (whilst Kiera was still searching for the turtles mum had suggested… ooops!)

After our visit to the hatchery, we took a drive across to Jologo Beach which was apparently ‘great for swimming’. When I asked the guide at the hatchery about crocs, he assured me they hadn’t been seen in the area for months. I am not really sure if that’s good or bad (they may be ready for a visit again) but we arrived at the beach to find tour groups taking a dip after their short scenic flight up from Broome. Keeping away from the sand dunes, which are traditional lore grounds for the community, we explored the beach and a quick dip in the beautiful warm water (albeit a super shallow swim only!).

Arriving back at the camp ground, we noticed a small group of four boys assembled around a fire with two of the traditional owners from the family. The boys were being taught how to make spears. Thankfully we had arrived back just in time and the kids were welcomed into the group. Kiera, with less patience than Finlay, lasted about 15 minutes and made a mini-spear.

Finlay was mesmerised for what turned into a 2 hour spear making marathon.

Clearly pleased with the end product, now we have to find somewhere to keep a massive 8ft weapon as we continue on our travels!

We were supposed to stay only three nights at Gumbanan but I don’t think any of us were quite ready to say goodbye to the ocean so we extended our stay in paradise for one extra night. At low tide the next day, one of the young men from the family took the boys out with their newly crafted spears to look for crabs. They disappeared for hours but Finlay came back with the biggest smile on his face, but thankfully no crabs for me to work out what to do with. What an opportunity!

Our time on the Dampier peninsula marks the end of our journey north along the coast of WA and now it is time to start heading east and towards the NT border. With the road from Broome to Cape Leveque now fully sealed, and scenic flights on offer from Broome, the Dampier peninsula is now fully accessible and this was already evident in the number of people we saw in the area. I have to wonder how the places we visited will change with time as more and more people learn they can now easily visit this once inaccessible part of the coast, only a few hours north from Broome. I feel fortunate to have seen the area now and will hopefully be back one day and experience the same amazing place.